# Volvo penta tad 941 ge service manual

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Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper repair section. Momentarily reduce then increase engine speed to assist break-in of rings and bearings. Preparation for Service Proper preparation is extremely helpful for efficient service work. Аналогичные товары данной категории: Производитель: SDMO Франция Модель: V220K Двигатель: Volvo Penta Модель: TWD 740 GE По запросу Производитель: SDMO Франция Модель: V275K Двигатель: Volvo Penta Модель: TAD 740 GE По запросу Производитель: SDMO Франция Модель: V330K Двигатель: Volvo Penta Модель: TAD 941 GE По запросу Производитель: SDMO Франция Модель: V375K Двигатель: Volvo Penta Модель: TAD 941 GE По запросу Производитель: SDMO Франция Модель: V410K Двигатель: Volvo Penta Модель: TAD 1241 GE По запросу Производитель: SDMO Франция Модель: V440K Двигатель: Volvo Penta Модель: TAD 1242 GE По запросу Производитель: SDMO Франция Модель: V500K Двигатель: Volvo Penta Модель: TAD 1640 GE По запросу Производитель: SDMO Франция Модель: V550K Двигатель: Volvo Penta Модель: TAD 1641 GE По запросу Производитель: SDMO Франция Модель: V630K Двигатель: Volvo Penta Модель: TAD 1642 GE По запросу.\
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When draining the cooling system, raise or lower the bow of the boat to position the engine in a level horizontal plane. Do not use any gasoline which contains Methanol methyl alcohol. Valve stems and heads on a wire wheel. If operating boat in water, tie boat securely to dock to prevent forward or backward movement. Allow the engine to dry thoroughly before beginning any work. Steam cleaning, pressure washing, or solvent cleaning are some of the acceptable methods.

This will protect against the entrance of foreign material which could follow the intake passage into the cylinder and cause extensive damage when the engine is started. With Engine Stopped Remove PCV valve from its mounting and shake it. Manifold should not leak around clamps and plate.\
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**Дизельный двигатель Volvo Penta TAD941GE** - Gasoline Containing Alcohol Many brands of gasoline being sold today contain alcohol. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section.\
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Boatinfo requires FlashPlayer 9 or newer to display this document! Workshop Manual Engine c2 o 5. S Model Identification All stern drive system components must be matched for either single or dual engine installations. Failure to properly match engine, transom bracket and sterndrive will result in poor boat performance, and risk damage to engine and drive because of incorrect drive gear ratio. Model identification is located on the engine, and MUST correspond with the transom shield and sterndrive numbers as listed in the Product Matrix sheet available separately. Engine Model Number All Engine Models 23282 GL Models 23280 23279 Gi, GXi, OSi and OSXi Models 23282 23278 Emission Control Labels GLModels Gi, GXi, OSi and OSXi Models 23363 23366 23364 23365 ivVPA 7743372 10-2004Transom Shield Model Number LocationSterndrive Model Number LocationSX and DP-SXDP-BDR2058DR4957PROD. NO23281 Section 1: General Information Tuning the Engine. Refer to the Contents to locate the section covering the system or assembly requiring service. Each section title page has an additional listing that will describe the sections contents in more detail. Be sure to read the Safety Section at the end of this manual, and pay special attention to all safety warnings as they appear throughout the text. Since models are subject to change at any time, some photos may not depict actual product. This includes engine servicing procedures to keep the engine in prime operating condition. It is important to determine before disassembly just what the trouble is and how to correct it quickly, with minimum expense to the owner. When repairing an assembly, the most reliable way to ensure a good job is to do a complete overhaul on that assembly, rather than just to replace the bad part. Wear not readily apparent on other parts could cause malfunction soon after the repair job. Repair kits and seal kits contain all the parts needed to ensure a complete repair, to eliminate guesswork, and to save time. Repair time can also be minimized by the use of special tools. Volvo Penta special tools are designed to perform service procedures unique to the product that cannot be completed using tools from other sources. They also speed repair work to help achieve service flat rate times. In some cases, the use of substitute tools can damage the part. Preparation for Service Proper preparation is extremely helpful for efficient service work. A clean work area at the start of each job will minimize tools and parts becoming misplaced. Clean an engine that is excessively dirty before work starts. Cleaning will occasionally uncover trouble sources. Obtain tools, instruments and parts needed for the job before work is started. Interrupting a job to locate special tools or repair kits is a needless delay. Use proper lifting and handling equipment. Working on stern drives without proper equipment can cause damage and personal injury. Always use clean fresh fuel when testing engines. Troubles can often be traced to the use of old or dirty fuel. The Volvo Penta Training Centers, frequent mailing of Service Bulletins, Letters and Promotions, Special Tools and this Service Manual represent the latest effort to assist dealers in giving consumers the best and most prompt service possible. If a service question does not appear to be answered in this manual, you are invited to write to the Volvo Penta Service Department for additional help. Always be sure to give complete information, including engine model number and serial number. Replacement Parts When replacement parts are required, always use genuine Volvo Penta parts, or parts with equivalent characteristics, including type, strength, and material. Parts Catalogs Parts Catalogs contain exploded views showing the correct assembly of all parts, as well as a complete listing of the parts for replacement. These catalogs are helpful as a reference during disassembly and reassembly, and are available from Volvo Penta Parts. Special Service Tools Volvo Penta has specially designed tools to simplify some of the disassembly and assembly operations. These tools are illustrated in this Service Manual, in many cases in actual use. All special tools can be order from Volvo Penta Parts. Individual purchasers of Service Manuals must order Special Tools through an authorized dealer. The right is also reserved to change any specifications or parts at any time without incurring any obligation to equip same on models manufactured prior to date of such change. All information, illustrations and specifications contained in this manual are based on the latest product information available at the time of printing. The right is reserved to make changes at anytime without notice. All photographs and illustrations used in this manual may not depict actual models or equipment, but are intended as representative views for reference only. The continuing accuracy of this manual cannot be guaranteed. The purpose of an engine tune-up is to restore power and performance that has been lost through wear, corrosion or deterioration of one or more parts or components. In the normal operation of an engine, these changes can take place gradually at a number of points, so that it is seldom advisable to attempt an improvement in performance by correction of one or two items only. Time will be saved and more lasting results will be obtained by following a definite and thorough procedure of analysis and correction of all items affecting power and performance. Economical, trouble-free operation can better be ensured if a complete tune-up is performed once every year, preferably in the spring. While the items affecting compression and ignition may be handled according to personal preference, correction of items in the fuel system group should not be attempted until all items affecting compression and ignition have been satisfactorily corrected. Most of the procedures for performing a complete engine tune-up will be covered in greater detail in this manual. This section will deal mainly with the order of procedures involved in tuning the engine. Engine Compression Testing During all work done around the engine, while the engine is running or being cranked, use extreme care to avoid getting fingers or clothing caught in any belts, pulleys, or other moving parts. Visually inspect stern drive unit for leaks, missing parts or other obvious defects. Compression check: Proper compression is essential for good engine performance. An engine with low or uneven compression cannot be properly tuned. Engine must not be started and run without water for cooling. Install thread-type compression gauge in spark plug hole. Test Conclusion The indicated compression pressures are considered normal if the lowest reading cylinder is within 75% of the highest. Example: If the highest pressure reading was 140 PSI, 75% of 140 is 105. Therefore, any cylinder reading less than 105 PSI indicates an improperly seated valve, worn valve guides, piston, cylinder, or worn or broken piston rings. Any cylinder reading 105 PSI or greater is within specifications, and compression is considered normal. If one or more cylinders read low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of engine oil on top of the pistons in the low reading cylinders. Repeat compression pressure check on the cylinders. If compression improves considerably, the piston rings are at fault. If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or seating poorly, or valve guides are worn. If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on the pistons does not increase the compression, the cause may be a cylinder head gasket leak between the cylinders. It is recommended the following quick reference chart be used when checking cylinder compression pressures. The chart has been calculated so that the lowest reading number is 75% of the highest reading. Table 1: Compression Pressure Limit Max. PSI 134 101 154 115 174 131 194 145 136 102 156 117 176 132 196 147 138 104 158 118 178 133 196 148 140 105 160 120 180 135 200 150 142 107 162 121 182 136 202 151 144 108 164 123 184 138 204 153 146 110 166 124 186 140 206 154 148 111 168 126 188 141 208 156 150 113 170 127 190 142 210 157 152 114 172 129 192 144 212 158 After checking cylinder compression, repairs should be made as necessary. Subsequent adjustments to an engine that does not have proper compression will not measurably improve performance or correct operational problems. After verifying compression, check ignition and fuel system components. Repair or replace components only as required. Do not substitute automotive parts. Volvo Penta marine components meet U. Coast Guard regulations for external ignition proof operation and marine use. Volvo Penta marine components are specially designed not to cause ignition of fuel vapors in the bilge or engine compartment. The use of automotive parts can result in fire and explosion. Intake Manifold Vacuum Testing Test Procedures 1. Start and warm up the engine. Observe the vacuum gauge while operating the engine over a range of engine speeds. A steady vacuum reading between 14 and 19in. A vacuum reading below 14 in. Further testing for base mechanical problems is needed. Possible causes of low intake manifold vacuum are late ignition timing, low compression, poor engine sealing, leaks at vacuum lines and connections or bad MAP sensor. If the gauge fluctuates at idle, possible causes are sticking or leaking valves, or an ignition miss. If the gauge fluctuates at idle but smooths out as engine RPM increases, check for bad valves or camshaft. If the gauge fluctuates more with increases engine RPM, check for weak or broken valve springs, bad valves, ignition miss, or a leaking head gasket. If the vacuum gauge fluctuates regularly with each engine cycle, check for a bad valve. If the vacuum reading drops steadily as engine RPM increases, check the exhaust system between the engine and sterndrive for restrictions. See table and chart below and on the following page for more information. Table 2: Vacuum Gauge Readings Pos Condition Reading A Normal at Idle 14-19 in. D Intake Leak Low but steady reading E Normal Acceleration Drops to 2 then rises to 25 when throttle is rapidly increased and decreased. F Worn Rings Drops to 0, then rises to 22 when throttle is rapidly increased and decreased G Sticking Valve s Normally steady, intermittently flicks downward approx. H Leaking Valve Drops 2 in. I Burned or Warped Valve Evenly spaced down-scale flicker approximately 5 in. J Worn Valve Oscillates Approximately 4 in. K Weak Valve Springs Violent oscillations as RPM increases. L Improper Idle Mixture Floats slowly between 13-17 in. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive under certain conditions. Always stop engine and do not smoke or allow open flames or sparks near the boat when refuelling gas tanks. When filling the gas tank, ground the tank to the source of gasoline by holding the hose nozzle firmly against the side of the deck filler plate, or ground it in some other manner. This action prevents static electricity buildup which could cause sparks and ignite fuel vapors. USE ONLY UNLEADED FUEL. Use lead-free gasoline with the following minimum or higher octane specification: Inside the U. Premium fuels contain injector cleaners and other additives that protect the fuel system and provide optimum performance. Engine damage resulting from the use of gasoline with octane 86 AKI 89 RON and lower is considered misuse of the engine and will void the engine warranty. Volvo Penta suggests the use of 89 AKI or higher fuels. These fuels have additives that are beneficial to maximum engine performance and long life of service components. To prevent gum formation and corrosion in the fuel system, use a Marine Fuel Stabilizer in the gasoline. Gasoline Containing Alcohol Many brands of gasoline being sold today contain alcohol. Two commonly used alcohol additives are Ethanol ethyl alcohol and Methanol methyl alcohol. Do not use any gasoline which contains Methanol methyl alcohol. If it is, your engine may use gasoline blended with no more than 10% Ethanol ethyl alcohol meeting the minimum octane specification. Do not use any gasoline which contains METHANOL methyl alcohol. Continued use of METHANOL methyl alcohol fuel will cause serious damage to the fuel system. This may cause engine problems such as vapor lock, low speed stalling, or hard starting. Moisture can cause fuel tank corrosion. Inspect fuel tanks at least annually. Replace corroded or leaking fuel tanks. Crankcase Oil Initial factory fill is a high quality motor oil for API Service SH. During the break-in period 20 hours , frequently check the oil level. Somewhat higher oil consumption is normal until piston rings are seated. The oil level should be maintained in the safe range between the Add and Full marks on the dipstick. This range represents approximately 1 litre 1 quart. If it is necessary to add or change the motor oil, use a quality oil with API service category SH. At the end of the break-in period 20 hours , change the crankcase oil and replace the oil filter. Refer to Lubrication and Inspection Chart for recommended oil change intervals. The use of multi-viscosity oils, such as 10W-30 or 10W-40, is not recommended. Draining and Filling the Engine If using Volvo Penta Premium Synthetic Engine Oil, drain and refill Crankcase crankcase every 200 hours of operation or once a year, whichever occurs first. If using oil other than Volvo Penta Premium Synthetic Engine Oil, drain and refill crankcase every 100 hours of operation or once a year, whichever occurs first. To prevent fire and explosion, always make sure engine compartment is free of gasoline fumes before using any spark-producing tools such as the electric drill motor used with oil withdrawal pump kit. Check the motor oil level frequently with the dipstick. The oil withdrawal tube is provided so oil does not have to be drained into the bilge. Withdraw oil with a suction pump. Fill the crankcase to the specified capacity with a quality motor oil labelled for service category SH. When changing motor oil, select from the following chart the SAE viscosity that matches the temperature range in which the boat will be operated. If it is necessary to add motor oil, use motor oil of the same viscosity. Table 3: Temperature Viscosity Recommendations If the lowest Anticipated Temperature is: The Following SAE Viscosity Oils are Recommended 32° F 0° C and above SAE 30 0° F -18° C to 32° F 0° C SAE 20W-20 Below 0° F -18° C SAE 10 NOTE! Disregard any reference to multi-viscosity oil printed on engine. Such reference is intended for automotive use only and not marine application. Do not fill above full mark. Overfilling results in high operating temperatures, foaming air in oil , loss of power, and overall reduced engine life. Table 4: Crankcase Capacities Model Less Filter With Filter 5. This filter is a self-contained, screw-on type. To remove, unscrew filter canister counterclockwise and discard. When attaching a new filter, be sure the gasket is lightly lubricated with motor oil. Hand tighten only, run engine and check for leaks. Do not run engine without supplying cooling water. See Parts Catalog for model and filter requirements. Approved power steering fluids such as GM power steering fluid or Dexron II automatic transmission fluid can also be used. Do not overfill the pump reservoir. At the beginning of each boating season, grease the steering ram with Volvo Penta grease. Replace the cap and tighten securely. Off-Season Storage There are nine steps that must be completed for Off-Season Storage Preparation When gasoline engines are removed from service for long periods 2 months or more , it is important that they are correctly stored or protected internally. Failure to properly stabilize the fuel can damage fuel system components and is not considered as warrantable. Boat manufacturers should follow the gasoline storage mixture section for testing prior to shipment. Limited Use If the vessels fuel within the tank s will not be consumed within a 30day period from the time of filling, a gasoline fuel stabilizer must be added as per the manufacturers instructions. This will help prevent the fuel from breaking down and causing reduced engine performance or damage from uncontrolled combustion. Storage If the boat is being placed into storage, a gasoline fuel stabilizer must be added to the tank s as per the manufacturers instructions. The amount of stabilizer required is determined by the quantity of fuel and the length of time it will be placed in storage. The maximum period that fuel can be stabilized is six months due to limitations of the stabilizers and fuels. Do not run engine out of fuel or run the electric fuel pumps dry more than 20 seconds. Running the electric fuel pumps dry will cause fuel pump damage. Prepare a storage mixture In addition to stabilization of the fuel, it is highly desirable to have the valves and cylinders coated with a light film of oil previously accomplished through fogging. The oil will get stuck in the plenum and never reach the cylinders. Together with the stabilizer, two-cycle motor oil can be added to a fuel mixture for stabilization purposes. Attach the storage mixture fuel tank. This will ensure that all fuel system and internal engine components are thoroughly protected. Do not operate the engine above 1500 RPM as the water pump demand may exceed the supply, damaging the pump. Electric Fuel Pumps and Fuel Cells Regardless of the ratio of fuel stabilizer to fuel we use, the maximum recommended storage time for gasoline, according to STA-BIL, is six months. During final assembly testing at our Lexington factory, each engine is run on a fuel mix that is stabilized. Each engine is shut off without running the fuel pumps dry and the fuel system is sealed to prevent damage. With the delay in time between the product getting installed in a boat, shipped to you, sold and finally delivered; the six- month time frame can easily be exceeded. Since delivering a quality, dependable product is one of our highest goals; we work closely with our suppliers to identify the root cause of failure on any parts returned for warranty credit. While there are certainly legitimate failures of fuel pumps, the major portion of them are returned to us due to varnished fuel from long term storage. We would like to offer some advice on dealing with these issues. Stuck Pumps If a fuel pump appears stuck and will not operate, you may try briefly reversing the polarity to the pump to turn it in the opposite direction. You should disconnect the electrical plug of one pump at a time on the fuel cell to determine which pump might have a problem. Noisy Fuel Pumps Electric pumps will often cavitate and become noisy if they are starving for fuel. On carbureted engines or low-pressure fuel cell pumps, check the fuel supply, quality of the fuel hose, anti-siphon valve, and filter before replacing the fuel pump. A noisy high-pressure pump on a fuel cell may indicate a low fuel level in the reservoir. Check the fuel supply and low pressure pump operation to be sure the reservoir is receiving the correct volume of fuel. The same information would apply to engines with the earlier vapor separator tank design. This information may help prevent the needless replacement of pumps in many cases and reduce the repair time for the boat owner. Change Motor Oil and Oil Filter: Step 3. Change Sterndrive Lubricant: Step 4. Fog Engine: Step 5. If oil is allowed to warm up before draining, a more complete draining will be accomplished. In addition, accumulated impurities will be held in suspension by the oil and be removed during draining operation. Follow the procedure under Draining and Filling the Engine Crankcase. Sterndrive must be submerged in water or water must be supplied to the raw water pump while operating engine. If using a flushing adaptor, remove propeller before starting engine to prevent accidental contact with rotating propeller. Check oil filter gasket for leaks. Add oil if necessary to bring oil level up to, but not over, the full mark. Drain and refill with fresh Volvo Penta GL-5 Synthetic Gear Lubricant or Mobilube 1 SHC Fully Synthetic SAE 75W-90 meeting or exceeding MIL-L-2105C or D, API GL-4 or 5 gear lubricant. Refer to Stern- drive Service Manual. Keep engine running while pouring fogging oil into carburettor throat. When draining the cooling system, raise or lower the bow of the boat to position the engine in a level horizontal plane. This will provide complete drainage of the engine block and manifolds. If the bow is higher or lower that the stern, some water may be trapped in the engine block or manifolds. Improper or incomplete draining may result in freeze damage to the engine, manifolds, sterndrive, or other components. Preparation for Boating After Storage 1. Install all drain plugs. Install cooling hoses and clamps. Check condition of hoses, manifold end caps and clamps. Connect hoses to engine and tighten clamps securely. Install boat drain plug, if removed. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Wipe the inside of the distributor cap dry with a clean cloth and spray with a dielectric corrosion inhibitor. Replace the rotor and cap. Clean the battery terminals. Spray terminals with a dielectric corrosion inhibitor. Open the fuel shut-off valve if so equipped and check all fuel line connections for leaks. Check the flame arrestor and clean if necessary. Reinstall, make sure all parts are in place and tighten nut securely. Make a thorough check of the boat and engine for loose or missing nuts and screws. Pump the bilge dry and air out the engine compartment. To prevent a possible explosion, operate the blower as recommended by the boat manufacturer before starting engine. If the boat is not equipped with a bilge blower, open engine cover or hatch prior to starting and leave open until after engine is running. If operating boat in water, tie boat securely to dock to prevent forward or backward movement. When using a flushing adaptor, remove the propeller before starting engine to prevent accidental contact with rotating propeller. Test run engine: Launch boat or use a flushing adaptor installed on Sterndrive. Do not start engine out of water unless water is supplied to the raw water pump. Always turn water on before starting engine. Control water pressure as full water pressure may cause damage to supply pump and engine. With engine compartment open, start the engine. Monitor the voltmeter, oil pressure and water temperature gauges frequently to be sure all systems are operating properly. Check for fuel, oil, and water leaks. Engine Break-in All engines have been run for a short period of time as a final test at the factory. You must follow the Engine Break-In procedure during the first 20 hours of operation to ensure maximum performance and longest engine life. To ensure proper lubrication during the break-in period, do not remove factory break-in oil until after the 20-hour break-in is completed. First Two Hours For the first five to ten minutes of operation, operate engine at a fast idle above 1500 RPM. After engine has reached operating temperature, momentarily reduce engine speed, then increase engine speed, to assist break-in of rings and bearings. During the remaining first two hours of operation, accelerate to bring boat onto plane quickly and bring throttle back to maintain a planing attitude. During this period, vary the engine speed frequently by accelerating to approximately three-fourths throttle for two to three minutes, then back to minimum planing speed. Maintain planing attitude to avoid excessive engine load. DO NOT RUN ENGINE AT A CONSTANT RPM FOR PROLONGED PERIODS OF TIME DURING THE BREAK-IN PERIOD. Next Eight Hours During next eight hours, continue to operate at approximately three- fourths throttle or less minimum planing speed. Occasionally reduce throttle to idle speed for a cooling period. During this eight hours of operation it is permissible to operate at full throttle for periods of less than two minutes. DO NOT RUN ENGINE AT A CONSTANT RPM FOR PROLONGED PERIODS OF TIME DURING THE BREAK-IN PERIOD. Final Ten Hours During the final ten hours of break-in, after warming engine to operating temperature, it is permissible to operate at full throttle for five to ten minutes at a time. Momentarily reduce then increase engine speed to assist break-in of rings and bearings. Occasionally reduce engine speed to idle to provide cooling periods. DO NOT RUN ENGINE AT A CONSTANT RPM FOR PROLONGED PERIODS OF TIME DURING THE BREAK-IN PERIOD. During break-in period, be particularly observant during initial running of engine, as follows: 1. Check crankcase oil level frequently. If you have a problem getting a good oil level reading on dipstick, rotate dipstick 180° in tube. Watch oil pressure gauge. If indicator fluctuates whenever boat attitude i. Check crankcase dipstick, and add oil to crankcase if required. If oil level is correct and condition still exists, check for possible gauge or oil pump malfunction. Oil pressure will rise as RPM increases, and fall as RPM decreases. In addition, cold oil will generally show higher oil pressure for any specific RPM than hot oil. Both of these conditions reflect normal engine operation. Watch engine temperature indicator to be sure there is proper water circulation. Caution Failure to follow the break-in procedure will void the engine warranty. At end of break-in period 20 hours , remove motor oil and replace oil filter. Fill crankcase with recommended 4-cycle motor oil. Operation After Break-in After break-in, the engine can be operated at any RPM from idle to full throttle. However, cruising at 3600 RPM or less saves fuel, reduces noise, and prolongs engine life. When starting a cold engine, always allow engine to warm up gradually. Never run engine at full throttle until engine is thoroughly warmed up. Be sure to check oil level frequently during the first 50 hours of operation, since oil consumption will be high until piston rings are properly seated. Submerged Engine Remove engine from water as quickly as possible. It is imperative that your dealer remove all water from the engine and immediately lubricate all internal parts. All electrical devices must also be dried and inspected for water damage. Delay in completing these actions may allow extensive engine damage. Frequently check engine compartment for gasoline fumes and excessive water accumulation; water depth in bilge should be kept well below flywheel housing. Change engine oil and oil filter. Check flame arrestor for proper mounting. Start engine and check complete fuel system for leaks. Lubricate steering cable ram with Volvo Penta grease. Check power steering pump reservoir for correct fluid level on models equipped with power steering. Failure to properly lubricate the steering system could lead to loss of steering control. Check shift system for proper adjustment and operation. Tighten all hose clamps, and check for leaks. Check tension on all drive belts. Check all engine mount screws for tightness. GL Models Only: Check and adjust carburetor for correct idle mixture and RPM. Check for any deficiencies, malfunctions, signs of abuse, etc. Correction of any problems at this time will prevent the worsening of a minor problem and help ensure a trouble-free boating season. Check oil level in Sterndrive and add as necessary with GL-5 Synthetic Gear Lubricant or Mobilube 1 SHC Fully Synthetic SAE 75W-90 meeting or exceeding MIL-L-2105C or D, API GL-4 or 5 gear lubricant. Make sure engine can achieve maximum rated RPM. Belt Tension Carbureted Models a. Power Steering Pump Belt b. If belts are too tight, excessive belt and bearing wear can occur. If they are too loose, slippage can occur, resulting in belt wear; and poor circulating pump, alternator, supply pump or power steering operation. Tension of a new belt should be checked after 10 hours of service and every 50 hours thereafter. Fuel Injected Models Serpentine belts do not require tensioning. Replace when the tension indicator lines up with the single line on the housing. Alternator Belt Adjustment Carbureted Models Check alternator belt tension midway between the circulating pump pulley and the alternator pulley. Circulating Pump Pulley c. Belt Tension Check Point e. Supply Pump Pulley Check alternator belt tension d midway between the circulating pump pulley b and the alternator pulley c. Loosen alternator mounting screws and nuts, and pivot alternator away from engine to increase belt tension. While maintaining pressure on alternator, retighten top screw, bottom screw and nut. The belts used for the alternator, circulating pump, and power steering pump are heavy-duty. DO NOT replace with automotive belts. DRC7451A C A A D B C DRC7451 Power Steering Pump Belt Adjust-Carbureted Models ment a. Power Steering Pump Pulley 16067 b. Circulating Pump Pulley c. Belt Tension Check point Caution! Improper power steering belt adjustment will cause a loss of power steering assist, resulting in hard steering. Check power steering belt tension midway between the circulating pump pulley and the power steering pump pulley. While maintaining pressure on pump, retighten all mounting screws. Never pry against the pump reservoir or pull filler neck. The belts used for the alternator, circulating pump, and power steering pump are heavy-duty. DO NOT replace with automotive belts. Do not attempt to compensate for this idle condition by disconnecting the crank-case ventilation system and making adjustments. The removal of the crankcase ventilation system from the engine will adversely affect fuel economy and engine ventilation with resultant shortening of engine life. To determine whether loping or rough idle condition is caused by a malfunctioning crankcase ventilation system, perform the following tests. With Engine Idling 1. Remove PCV valve from its mounting, but leave vacuum inlet side connected to hose. If the valve is functioning properly and not plugged, a hissing noise will be heard as air passes through valve. A strong vacuum will be felt when a finger is placed over valve inlet. Check for vacuum leaks in hose line and at all connections. Reinstall PCV valve, then remove crankcase air inlet hose at flame arrestor connection. Loosely hold a small piece of stiff paper such as a 3 x 5 memo card or parts tag card over opening at end of inlet hose. After a minute or so, to allow crankcase pressure to lower the piece of paper should be sucked against hose opening with a noticeable force. With Engine Stopped Remove PCV valve from its mounting and shake it. A metallic clicking noise should be heard, indicating that valve parts are free, and not sticking. If ventilation system passes these two tests, it can be considered functionally OK, and no further service is required. If it fails either test, replace PCV valve and repeat Engine Idling Test. If system still does not pass test, clean ventilation system hoses and all passages to induction system in accordance with established procedures. Servicing PCV Valve Caution! Do not attempt to clean crankcase ventilation regulator valve. It should be replaced. Clean crankcase ventilation system connection s on intake manifold by probing with a flexible wire or bottle brush. Clean hoses, tubes and associated hardware with a low-volatility, petroleum-base solvent and dry with compressed air. Troubleshooting - System Isolation The following is to help you isolate a malfunction of one or possibly several systems. After determining which systems are related to the malfunction, refer to the individual system troubleshooting charts to isolate the specific cause. Engine Troubleshooting Guides Fuel Injected Engines Only: Refer to EFI Diagnostic Service Manual. These guides were written to help you trace the symptoms of the trouble to the source, without having to read through and prove every possibility. Much of the information here will be familiar to well informed mechanics. Also, many factors will seem insignificant but when you think of it, usually the toughest problem to troubleshoot is caused by the smallest error. The greatest aid to solving a service problem is information. Start gathering information from the boat operator and write it on his job card or work ticket. Analyze this information and try to match it to similar situations you have experienced in the past. These are very old rules, but necessary for the engine to run. Use these charts and the service information they refer to. Do not try to remember tolerances, settings, measurements, etc. If not, check for 1. Discharged or dead Battery 2. Loose or corroded connections 3. If not, check the: 1. Coil and spark plug leads 3. Automatic spark advance 5. EFI Models: Refer to EFI Diagnostic Manual Fuel System EFI Models: Refer to EFI Diagnostic Manual Carbureted Models: Carburetor accelerator pump should squirt fuel into the Venturi when throttle is advanced. If not, check the: 1. Fuel Tank, valves, and lines 2. Fuel pump and filter 3. Carburetor and Filter 4. Boat Fuel System Troubleshooting Chart 5. Carburetor Troubleshooting Chart 6. Engine Fuel System Troubleshooting Chart Engine Runs Improperly Check the following: 1. Fuel and carburetor and injection system 4. Sterndrive and propeller 7. Engine Troubleshooting Guides ten in the service manual. Leave your mind free to analyze the prob lem. Following is a list of the troubleshooting guides which may be found on the pages indicated. Page Engine Will Not Crank. Hard Starting - Cold Engine Ask these questions first: Has Engine Always Done This? Carburetor choke operation and adjustment Check: 2. Fuel lines for obstructions 3. For debris inside fuel tank 4. For clean external canister and carburetor fuel filters Check: 2. Empty carburetor float bowl due to evaporation 3. Water in fuel due to condensation 4. Fuel quality deterioration 5. Carburetor choke operation and adjustment 2. Carburetor accelerator pump 3. Fuel system for leaks, dirt, or obstructions 4. Engine timing and ignition system 5. Carburetor choke operation and adjustment Check: 2. Brand, type or octane of fuel 2. Water in fuel 4. Condition of battery and cables 5. Starter motor for overheat damage Did Engine Refuse To Start After 1. Ignition system primary circuit Being Run? Carburetor choke operation and adjustment 5. Idle speed and idle mixture 2. Engine timing and spark plugs 3. Fuel pump pressure 4. Water or contaminants in fuel 5. Carburetor or manifold vacuum leak 6. Internal carburetor fuel leak 7. Air leak on suction side of fuel system 2. Too low octane fuel 3. Ignition system secondary circuit 4. Wrong model or size carburetor, improper main jets or power valve, defective secondary fuel circuit, secondary vacuum diaphragm failure 6. External canister and carburetor fuel filters 7. Fuel pump pressure 8. Water or contaminants in fuel, water in cylinders 10. Rapping only when starting oil too heavy for prevailing weather, varnish on lifter, oil needs to be changed 2. Intermittent rapping leakage at lifter check ball 3. Idle noise excessive leak down rate, faulty check ball seat 4. Generally noisy excessive oil in crankcase, stuck lifter plunger 5. Loud noise at operating temperature scored lifter plunger, fast leak down rate, oil viscosity too light for prevailing weather or operating temperatures 6. See appropriate Engine section Ignition System Ping or Knock 1. Incorrect spark plug wire routing 3. Use higher octane fuel 4. Loose belts, pulleys 3. See Cooling System section Mountings 1. Loose, broken or worn engine mounts 2. Loose lag screws holding mounts to stringer Crankshaft Balancer or Flywheel 1. Loose bolt s Alternator 1. Loose pulley, worn bearings 2. Loose mounting bolts Sterndrive 1. Failed Ujoints or gimbal bearing 2. Damaged internal drive components 3. Worn, bent or broken propeller hub or blades 4. Loose, worn or damaged engine coupler Engine Overheats - Check: 1. Actual engine temperature by verifying with an accurate thermometer 2. Gauge operation and wiring circuit 3. Sending unit operation and wiring circuit 4. Supply pump, circulating pump and belt s 5. Water intake screens for blockage 6. Water supply hoses 8. Water leaks on pressure side of supply pump 10. Air leaks on suction side of supply pump 11. Engine compression Engine Dies Out Loss Of, Or Out Of, Fuel -Check: 1. Fuel gauge operation and wiring 2. Fuel level in tank 3. Water or debris in fuel 4. Fuel pickup tube and screen blockage 5. Fuel tank vent blockage 6. Plugged external canister or carburetor fuel filters 7. Air leak on suction side of fuel system 8. Fuel leak on pressure side of fuel system 9. Inoperative, restricted or incorrectly sized anti-siphon valve 10. Boat fuel lines too small in diameter 11. Fuel pump pressure and suction 12. Carburetor cleanliness and operation 13. Primary and secondary ignition circuits 2. Wiring between engine and dash 5. Main engine harness wiring 6. Sterndrive for internal damage Seizure - Check: 2. Oil pressure gauge and crankcase oil level 3. Temperature gauge and cooling system operation 4. Fuel type or octane Check: 2. Propeller pitch or diameter, damaged blades, slipping hub 3. Crankcase oil volume 4. Marine growth on hull and drive 5. Wrong Sterndrive gear ratio 6. Operating at high altitude 7. Restricted carburetor air intake 8. Restricted exhaust outlets in engine, transom bracket or drive 9. Poor cylinder compression 10. Carburetor size and type correct for engine 11. Fuel pump pressure and vacuum 12. Boat overloaded, or load improperly placed 13. Engine timing and ignition system operation 15. Remote control cables and linkage for proper attachment and travel Defective Engine Lubricating System Engine Components - Check: 1. Clogged or incorrect oil filter 2. Worn oil pump gears, cover or shaft 3. Worn or collapsed oil pump relief valve spring, or foreign material caught on valve seat 4. Oil pump relief valve plunger loose in cover 5. Damaged filter bypass grommet 6. Clogged oil pickup screen, broken tube or housing 7. Plugged crankshaft or blocked oil galleys 8. Dirty or defective hydraulic lifters, clogged push rod passages 9. Poor quality, incorrect viscosity or quantity of oil 10. Incorrect hose routing on remote filter systems 11. All electrical accessories including ignition circuit off 2. Disconnect main battery negative cable from battery 3. Repair or replace components as necessary Section 2: General Mechanical General Description. Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The text will call out those fasteners that require replacement after removal. The text will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplement coatings paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and tightening specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems. General Description The engine repair information described in this section explains how to clean, inspect, and measure certain engine components. Use this section along with the proper engine repair section for the correct disassembly and assembly procedures. Engine specifications are found in the back of engine repair section and will be referred to often in this section. Cleanliness and Care An engine is a combination of many machined, honed, polished, and lapped surfaces with very close tolerances. Whenever valve train, cylinder head, crankshaft, piston, and connecting rod components are removed for service, they should be installed in their original location. Anytime the flame arrestor is removed, the intake opening must be covered. This will protect against the entrance of foreign material which could follow the intake passage into the cylinder and cause extensive damage when the engine is started. When any internal engine parts are serviced, care and cleanliness are important. Apply a liberal coating of engine oil to friction areas during assembly to protect and lubricate the surfaces during initial operation. Throughout this section, it should be understood that proper cleaning and protection of machined surfaces and friction areas is part of the repair procedure. This is considered standard shop practice even if not specifically stated. Use of RTV Sealer and Anaerobic Gasket Eliminator Two types of sealants are commonly used in the engines covered by this manual. It is important that these sealers be applied properly and in the proper place to prevent oil leaks. THE TWO TYPES OF SEALER ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE. Use the sealer recommended in the procedure. Common examples are oil pans and valve rocker arm covers. This sealer is used where two rigid parts such as castings are assembled together. When two rigid parts are disassembled and no sealer or gasket is readily noticeable, the parts were probably assembled using gasket eliminator. Using RTV Sealer 1. Do not use RTV in areas where extreme temperatures are expected, such as exhaust manifold or head gaskets, or where gasket eliminator is specified. Use a rubber mallet to separate components sealed with RTV. Bump the part sideways to shear the RTV sealer. Bumping should be done at bends or reinforced areas to prevent distortion of parts. RTV is weaker in shear lateral strength than in tensile vertical strength. Caution Attempting to pry or pull components apart may result in damage to the part. Remove all gasket material from the part using a plastic or wood scraper. Follow all safety recommendations and directions that are on the can. Do not use any other method or technique to remove gasket material from a part. Do not use abrasive pads, sand paper or power tools to clean gasket surfaces. These methods of cleaning can damage the part. Abrasive pads also produce a fine grit that the oil filter cannot remove from the oil. This grit is abrasive and has been known to cause internal engine damage. Apply RTV to one of the clean surfaces. Use a bead size as specified in the procedure. Run the bead to the inside of any bolt holes. Do not allow the sealer in any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from seating properly or cause damage when the bolt is tightened. Assemble components while RTV is still wet within 3 minutes. Do not wait for RTV to skin over. Torque bolts to specifications. Using Anaerobic Gasket Eliminator 1. Remove all gasket material from the part using a plastic or wood scraper. Follow all safety recommendations and directions that are on the can. Do not use any other method or technique to remove gasket material from a part. Do not use abrasive pads, sand paper or power tools to clean gasket surfaces. These methods of cleaning can damage the part. Abrasive pads also produce a fine grit that the oil filter cannot remove from the oil. This grit is abrasive and has been known to cause internal engine damage. Apply a continuous bead of gasket eliminator to one flange. Surfaces to be resealed must be clean and dry. Spread the bead evenly with your finger to get a uniform coating on the complete flange. Assemble parts in the normal manner and torque immediately to specifications. J 8087 Anaerobic sealed joints that are partially torqued and allowed to cure more than five minutes may result in incorrect shimming of the joint. Composite-type head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets are used in the engine assembly. The head gaskets have a thin metal core. Some engine applications use a thin metal core for intake manifold gaskets. Use caution when removing or handling gaskets to help avoid personal injury. The smallest possible oversize service pistons should be used and the cylinder bores should be honed to size for proper clearances. Refer to Engine Specifications for cylinder bore tolerances. Depress plunger on tool 0. Carefully work the gauge up and down the cylinder to determine taper and turn it to different points around the cylinder wall to determine the out-of-round condition. Measure the bore both parallel to and at right angles to the engine centerline. Measure at the top, middle, and bottom of the bore and note the readings. Recondition the cylinder bore as necessary. Refer to Cylinder Bore Reconditioning on page 31 in this section. Cylinder bore for out-of-round and taper. Wear at the top of the bore A and the bottom B. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section for cylinder bore tolerances. Cylinder bores can be measured by setting the cylinder gauge dial at zero in the cylinder at the point of desired measurement. Lock the dial indicator at zero before removing it from the cylinder, and measure across the gauge contact points with an outside micrometer, with the gauge at the same zero setting when removed from the cylinder. If cylinder bore taper or wear exceed specification, the cylinders must be bored and honed to the smallest oversize. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper repair section. Fine vertical scratches made by ring ends will not, by themselves, cause excessive oil consumption; therefore, honing to remove them is unnecessary. If the bore is glazed but otherwise serviceable, break the glaze lightly with a hone and replace the piston rings. Refer to Honing on page 32 in this section. If honing is not required, the cylinder bores should be cleaned with a hot water and detergent wash. Apply clean engine oil to the bore after cleaning. Removing Cylinder Bore Ridge Tool Required: J 24270 Ridge Reamer J 24270 Ridge Reamer J242700 Caution! Excessive removal of material may require cylinder boring to the next oversize. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston is at BDC. Place a cloth on top of the piston. Perform the cutting operation with a J 24270 ridge reamer. Remove J 24270 and rotate the crankshaft until the piston is at TDC. Remove the cloth and cuttings. Repeat this procedure for each piston. Boring Refer to Engine Specifications on page 155 for additional information. Before the honing or boring operation is started, measure all new pistons with the micrometer contacting at points exactly 90 degrees from the piston pin centerline. Some pistons must be measured at a specified distance from the piston crown. Refer to the proper section for additional instructions. Then select the smallest piston for the first fitting. The slight variation usually found between pistons in a set may provide for correction in case the first piston is fitted too loose. Before using any type of boring bar, the top of the cylinder block should be filed to remove any dirt or burrs. This is very important. If not checked, the boring bar may be tilted which would result in the rebored cylinder wall not being at right angles to the crankshaft. The instructions furnished by the manufacturer of the equipment being used should be carefully followed. When boring cylinders, all crankshaft bearing caps must be in place and tightened to the proper torque to avoid distortion of bores in the final assembly. When taking the final cut with a boring bar, leave 0. The honing or boring operation must be done carefully so the specified clearance between pistons, rings, and cylinder bores is maintained. Use only clean, sharp stones of the proper grade for the amount of material to be removed. Dull, dirty stones cut unevenly and generate excessive heat. When using coarse or medium grade stones, use care to leave sufficient metal so that all stone marks may be removed with the fine stones used for finishing to provide proper clearance. Occasionally, during the honing operation, the cylinder bore should be thoroughly cleaned, and the piston selected for the individual cylinder checked for correct fit. When honing to eliminate taper in the cylinder, make full strokes of the hone in the cylinder. Also check measurement at the top, middle, and bottom of the bore repeatedly. Handle the pistons with care and do not attempt to force them through the cylinder until the cylinder has been honed to the correct size. The piston can be easily distorted through careless handling. When finish honing a cylinder bore to fit a piston, move the hone up and down at a sufficient speed to obtain very fine uniform surface finish marks in a cross-hatch pattern at the specified angle 45 to 65 degrees. The finish marks should be clean but not sharp, free from embedded particles and torn or folded metal. By measuring the piston to be installed at the sizing point specified in the proper section, and adding the average of the clearance specification, the finish hone cylinder measurement can be determined. It is important that both the block and piston be measured at normal room temperature. Refer to Engine Specifications on page 155 for proper dimensions 7. It is of the greatest importance that refinished cylinder bores are trued up to have less than the specified out-of-round or taper. Each bore must be final honed to remove all stone or cutter marks and provide a smooth surface. After final honing and before the piston is checked for fit, clean the bores with hot water and detergent. Scrub with a stiff bristle brush and rinse thoroughly with hot water. It is essential that a good cleaning operation be performed. If any of the abrasive material is allowed to remain in the cylinder bores, it will wear the new rings, cylinder bores, and bearings lubricated by the contaminated oil. After washing, the dry bore should be brushed clean with a power-driven fiber brush. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section. Permanently mark the piston for the cylinder to which it has been fitted. Apply clean engine oil to each bore to prevent rusting. Piston and Connecting Rod Tools Required: J 24086-C Piston Pin Removal and Installation Set Disassemble: 1. In most cases the rings should be discarded and replaced with new rings at assembly. If the bearings are to be reused, place them in a rack so they may be reinstalled with the original connecting rod and cap. Make sure the connecting rod is fully supported. Place remover J 24086-C on the support fixture. Press out the piston pin. DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH. Use a ring groove cleaning tool. Piston pin bore and connecting rod bore for scuffing and burrs. Connecting rod for cracks, nicks, etc. If a suitable jig is available, check the connecting rod for a bent or twisted condition. Connecting rod bearings for scratches or deep pitting. Check against Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section. DRC6512 Piston pin to piston clearance 2. Measure the piston pin hole diameter. Subtract the piston pin diameter from the piston pin hole diameter to obtain the clearance. Replace the piston and piston pin if the clearance exceeds specifications. The piston and piston pin are a matched set and not available separately. DRC6513 Piston Selection Check the used piston to cylinder bore clearance. Use a telescoping bore gauge, located 2. Measure the piston skirt at a right angle to the piston pin, at the centerline of the piston pin. Subtract the piston diameter from the cylinder bore diameter to determine piston to bore clearance. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section to determine if piston clearance is within the acceptable range. If the used piston is not acceptable, determine if a new piston will fit the cylinder bore. If a new piston does not bring the clearance within tolerances, the cylinder bore must be reconditioned. Mark the piston to identify the cylinder for which it was fitted. J 8087 DRC6507 DRC6514 Assembling the Piston and Connecting Rod Tool Required: J 24086-C Piston Pin Removal and Installation Set Assemble: 1. Piston and connecting rod. Connecting rod must be installed in the correct orientation. Refer to the proper engine repair section for piston and connecting rod installation. Install the pin guide. Hold the piston and connecting rod together. Be sure to use the proper pin guide. Refer to the instructions supplied with the tool. Insert the piston pin into the piston pin hole. Place the assembly on the support fixture. Adjust the piston pin installer J 24086-C to the correct length, using the letter-number scale on the installer adjuster. This is necessary to ensure the piston pin is pressed into the piston to the correct depth. Refer to the instructions supplied with the tool for the proper setting. Lock the adjuster in place with the lock ring. After the installer hub bottoms on the support assembly, do not exceed 5000 PSI 35,000 kPa pressure, as this could cause damage to the tool. Place the adjuster in the support fixture. Press the piston pin into place until the adjustable installer bottoms in the support fixture. Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly from the tool and check the piston for freedom of movement on the piston pin. Installing the Piston Rings Measure: Ring end gap as follows: 1. Select rings comparable in size to the piston being used. Slip compression ring into the cylinder bore. Use piston to square ring in cylinder wall. Insert piston without rings upside down and guide the compression ring into the cylinder bore until ring is down about 1. Space or gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section for correct gap. If the gap between the ends of the ring is not as specified, remove the ring and try another for fit. DRC6516 J 24086-C DRC6515 10755 Inspect: Ring fit as follows: 1. Fit each compression ring to the piston on which it is going to be used. Slip the outer surface of the top and second compression ring into the respective piston ring groove, to make sure the ring is free. If binding occurs at any point, the cause should be determined. If binding is caused by the ring groove, correct it by dressing the groove with a fine cut file. If the binding is caused by a distorted ring, try a new ring. Assemble: Refer to Piston Assembly in the engine repair section. All compression rings are marked on the upper side of the ring. When installing the compression rings, make sure the MARKED SIDE IS TOWARD THE TOP OF THE PISTON. The oil control rings are 3-piece assemblies, consisting of two rails and an expander. If binding occurs at any point the cause should be determined. If binding is caused by the ring groove, correct it by dressing the groove with a fine cut file. If binding is caused by a distorted ring, try a new ring. Use a feeler gauge. Compare with Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section. Camshaft Bearings Camshaft Bearing Removal Disassemble: Tool Required: J 33049 Camshaft Bearing Removal and Installation Set 1. Insert the tool with the correct collet into the camshaft bearing you want to replace. Turn the tool until the collet has tightened in the bearing. Push the center cone against the block and into the first bearing bore to center the tool. Drive the bearing from the block. Repeat this procedure to remove the remaining inner camshaft bearings. Note that the rear bearing must be removed from the front of the block and the front bearing should be removed from the rear. This allows the tool to remain centered. Replace the camshaft bearings if necessary. Minor irregularities may be cleaned up with emery cloth. Camshaft Measurements Tool Required: J 7872 Dial Indicator or Equivalent Caution! Whenever the camshaft needs to be replaced, a new set of valve roller lifters must also be installed. Camshaft journal diameters using a micrometer. Compare with Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section. Mount the camshaft in V-blocks or between centers. Using J 7872, check the intermediate camshaft journal. Compare camshaft runout specifications in the proper engine repair section. If the camshaft is excessively bent, replace the camshaft and camshaft bearings. DRC6520 J 7872 Camshaft Bearing Installation Tool Required: J 33049 Camshaft Bearing Removal and Installation Set The outer camshaft bearings must be installed first. These bearings serve as guides for the tool, and help center the inner bearings during the installation process. Make sure to fit the correct cam bearing into the bore. The cam bear ing bores may vary in size. Drive the bearings into place using J 33049 from front of engine. Make sure the camshaft bearing lubrication hole or holes align with the oil gallery hole or holes in the block. On some engines, the oil holes may be difficult to see. Verify the holes are lined up. Front camshaft bearing using tool J 33049. VPA 7743372 10-2004 39 3. Inner camshaft bearings using J 33049. Reverse of removal procedure. The plug must be installed deep enough in camshaft bore. Refer to the proper engine repair section for camshaft plug installation. Cylinder Head Disassemble Valves and components. Refer to the proper engine repair section. Cleaning and Inspection Tools Required: J 8089 Wire Brush J 8089 DR3124 DR3123 Clean 1. Carbon from the combustion chambers, using J 8089. Valve stems and heads on a wire wheel. Carbon and old gasket from the cylinder head gasket surface. Valve guides using a valve guide cleaner. Cylinder head for cracks in the exhaust ports, combustion cham DRC6521 bers, or external cracks to the coolant chamber. Gasket surfaces should be free of damage. Check valves for burning, pitting, or warping. Grind or replace as needed. Check the valve stems for scoring or excessive wear. Stems must not be bent. Valve rocker arm studs for wear, damage, or improper fit. Valve seats for pitting or other damage. Grind or reface as needed. The rotators should rotate smoothly without binding. Cylinder head for surface flatness. Measure: Tools Required: J 8001 Dial Indicator or equivalent, J 9666 Valve Spring Tester 1. Valve stem to guide bore clearance. Excessive valve stem to guide bore clearance will cause excessive oil consumption and may damage components. Insufficient clearance will result in noisy and sticky functioning of the valve and interfere with engine smoothness. Clamp a dial indicator J 8001 or equivalent on one side of the cylinder head valve rocker arm cover gasket rail. Observe dial indicator movement while moving valve from side to side crosswise to the head. The dial indicator measurement must be taken just above the valve guide bore. Drop the valve head about 0. Move the stem of the valve from side to side using light pressure to obtain a clearance reading. If clearance exceeds specifications, it will be necessary to ream the valve guide bores for oversize valves as outlined later. Valve spring tension, using J 9666 or equivalent. Compress the valve springs to the specified height. Check valve spring height in Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section. Valve springs should be replaced if not within specification. J 8001 DR2101 DR3122 J 9666 b. Replace the valve spring if valve spring length exceeds specifications. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section. DRC6522 204 205 206 208 209 Repair Valve Grinding Pitted valves must be re-faced to the proper angle. Valve stems that show excessive wear, or valves that are warped excessively must be replaced. When an excessively warped valve head is refaced, a sharp or thin valve margin may result because of the amount of metal that must be removed. Undersize valve margins lead to breakage, burning, 207 or preignition due to heat localizing on this edge. Refer to Engine Specifications in the engine repair section. Several different types of equipment are available for refacing valves. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section for valve face angle specifications. New Valve Worn Valve 204 Valve Tip 205 Key Groove 206 Stem-Least Worn 207 Stem- Most Worn 208 Face 209 Margin Valve Seat Grinding Reconditioning the valve seats is very important, because the seating of the valves must be perfect for the engine to deliver the power and performance it was designed to produce. Another important factor is the cooling of the valve head. Good contact between each valve and its seat ensures that heat will be carried away properly. Several different types of equipment are available for resurfacing valve seats. Carefully follow the recommendations of the manufacturer of the equipment being used to attain proper results. Regardless of what type of equipment is used, it is essential that valve guide bores be free from carbon or dirt to ensure proper centering of the pilot in the guide. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section for valve seat angle specifications. Reaming Valve Guides The valve guides used in engines covered by this manual are simply holes bored into the cylinder head. The valve guides are not replaceable. If the valve stem-to-bore clearance as previously measured is excessive, the valve guides should be reamed and a valve with an oversize stem installed. Oversize valves are available. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section. Select a reamer that will provide a straight, clean bore through the entire length of the valve guide. J-5830-3 480556 Assembly Valves and components Refer to the proper engine repair section. Measure: Valve spring installed height of each valve spring as follows: Valve installed height using a narrow thin scale. A cutaway scale A A may be helpful. Spring seat in the cylinder head to the top of the valve spring cap. Certain engine applications use valve spring shims to adjust valve 12345 spring installed height. If measurement exceeds the amount shown in DRC6667 Engine Specifications in the engine repair section, install valve spring seat shims of sufficient thickness between the spring and cylinder head to obtain desired measurement. NEVER shim the spring so as to give an installed height under the specified amount. DRC6668 Crankshaft and Connecting Rod Bearings Cleaning and Inspection Clean: 1. Inspect: Crankshaft for cracks. In general, the lower crankshaft bearings except the 1 bearing show the greatest wear and distress from fatigue. Upon inspection, if a lower crankshaft bearing is suitable for reuse, it can be assumed that the upper crankshaft bearing is also satisfactory. If a lower crankshaft bearing shows evidence of wear or damage, both the upper and lower crankshaft bearings must be replaced. Measuring Bearing Clearance Crankshaft bearings are of the precision insert type and do not use shims for adjustment. If clearances are excessive, new upper and lower bearings will be required. Service bearings are available in standard size and undersize. Refer to Crankshaft and Bearing Installation in the proper engine repair section. Selective fitting of crankshaft bearings are necessary in production to obtain close tolerances. For example, you may find one-half of a standard crankshaft bearing with one-half of an undersize crankshaft bearing. To determine the correct replacement bearing size, the bearing clearance must be measured accurately. Either of the following two methods may be used, however, the micrometer method gives more reliable results and is preferred. Measure the crankshaft journal diameter with a micrometer in several places, approximately 90 degrees apart, and average the measurements. Compute taper and runout. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section for allowable limits. Install crankshaft bearings into the crankshaft cap and engine block. Install crankshaft caps and bolts. Tighten bolts to the Torque Specifications in the proper engine repair section. Bearing inside diameter I. Compare crankshaft bearing clearance specifications using Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section. If bearing clearances exceeds specifications, install new crankshaft bearings. Measure inside diameter with an inside micrometer. Place the micrometer at 90 degrees to the split line of the crankshaft bearing. Subtract journal diameter from bearing inside diameter to obtain bearing clearance. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section for bearing inside clearance. Replace or repair the crankshaft if clearance exceeds specifications. DRC6525 DRC6526 DRC6527 Plastic Gauge Method Install all crankshaft bearings and crankshaft into block. Install the crankshaft bearing caps and torque them to specifications. Remove the bearing caps and check the amount the gauging plastic has been compressed. Gauging plastic may adhere to either the crankshaft bearing or crankshaft journal. On the edge of the gauging plastic envelope there is a graduated scale. Without removing the gauging plastic, measure its compressed width at the widest point. If the flattened gauging plastic tapers toward the middle or ends, there is a difference in clearance indicating taper, low spot or other irregularity of the bearing or journal. Normally crankshaft bearing journals wear evenly and are not outof- round. However, if a bearing is being fitted to an out-of-round 0. If the bearing is fitted to the minimum diameter and the journal is excessively out-of-round, interference between the bearing and the journal will result in rapid bearing failure. If the bearing clearance is within specifications, the bearing is satisfactory. If the clearance is not within specifications, replace the bearing. Always replace both upper and lower bearings as a unit. A standard or underside bearing combination may result in the proper clearance. If the proper bearing clearance cannot be achieved using standard or underside bearings, it will be necessary to replace the crankshaft. Crankshaft bearings must not be shimmed, scraped or filed. Do not touch the bearing surface with bare fingers. Skin oil and acids will etch the bearing surface. Remove the flattened gaging plastic. Crankshaft Runout Tools Required: J 7872 Magnetic Base Dial Indicator Measure: Crankshaft 1. Mount the crankshaft in V-blocks at crankshaft journals 1 and 5. Position a dial indicator pointer on the center main bearing and rotate crankshaft. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section J 7872 for crankshaft runout specifications. DRC6528 Connecting Rod Side Clearance Measure: Connecting rod side clearance. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section for clearance. DRC6530 DRC6529 Crankshaft End Play Measure: Crankshaft end play, as follows: 1. Firmly thrust the end of the crankshaft first rearward then forward. This will line up the rear crankshaft bearing and crankshaft thrust surfaces. With crankshaft wedged forward, measure at the front end of the crankshaft bearing thrust side with a feeler gauge. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section for crankshaft end play clearance. If correct end play cannot be obtained, be certain that the correct size crankshaft bearing has been installed. Some production engines may use crankshaft bearings that are wider across the thrust faces than standard size bearings. Refer to Engine Specifications in the proper engine repair section for available bearing sizes. Inspect: Crankshaft for binding. Turn crankshaft to check for binding. If the crankshaft does not turn freely, loosen the crankshaft bearing bolts, one pair at a time, until the tight bearing is located. Burrs on the bearing cap, foreign matter between the bearing and the block or the bearing cap, or a faulty bearing could cause a lack of clearance at the bearing. Thread Repair Damaged threads may be reconditioned by drilling out, rethreading, and installing a suitable thread insert. Wear safety glasses to avoid eye damage. Determine size, pitch, and depth of damaged thread. If necessary, adjust stop collars on cutting tool and tap to required depth. Drill out damaged thread. Lubricate tap with light engine oil. Avoid buildup of chips. Back out the tap every few turns and remove chips. Thread the thread insert onto the mandrel of the installer. Engage the tang of the insert onto the end of the mandrel. Lubricate the insert with light engine oil except when installing in aluminum and install. When correctly installed, the insert should be flush to one turn below the surface. If the tang of the insert does not break off when backing out the installer, break the tang off with a drift. It is a one piece casting with the cylinders encircled by coolant jackets. Cylinder Head The cylinder heads are cast iron. The valve guides and valve seats are machined surfaces integral to the head. The spark plugs are located between the intake and exhaust ports. Camshaft A steel camshaft is supported by five bearings pressed into the engine block. The camshaft sprocket, mounted to the front of the camshaft is driven by the crankshaft sprocket through a camshaft timing chain. Motion from the camshaft is transmitted to the valves by hydraulic roller valve lifters, valve push rods, and ball-pivot type rocker arms. Crankshaft The crankshaft is made of cast nodular iron. It is supported by five crankshaft bearings that are retained by crankshaft bearing caps which are machined with the block for proper alignment and clearances. The number five crankshaft bearing at the rear of the engine is the end thrust bearing. Four connecting rod journals two rods per journal are spaced 90 degrees apart. Pistons and Connecting Rods The pistons are cast aluminum that use two compression rings and one oil control ring assembly. The piston is a low-friction, lightweight design with a flat top and barrel-shaped skirt. The piston pins are chromium steel. They have a floating fit in the piston and are retained by a press fit in the connecting rod assembly. The connecting rods are made out of either forged powdered metal or forged steel. They are machined with the rod cap installed for proper clearances and alignment. Lubrication The gear-type oil pump is driven through an extension driveshaft. The extension driveshaft is driven by the distributor which is gear driven by the camshaft. The oil is drawn from the oil pan through a pickup screen and tube. Pressurized oil is delivered through internal passages to lubricate camshaft and crankshaft bearings and to provide valve lash control in the hydraulic valve lifters. Oil is metered from the valve lifters through the valve push rods to lubricate the valve rocker arms and ball pivots. Oil returning to the oil pan from the cylinder heads and the front camshaft bearing, lubricates the camshaft timing chain and crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Tools and Shop Equipment A clean, well-lit, work area should be available. Other necessary equipment includes: a suitable parts cleaning tank, compressed air supply, trays to keep parts and fasteners organized, and an adequate set of hand tools. An approved engine repair stand will help aid with the work and help prevent personal injury or component damage. Special tools are listed and illustrated throughout this section with a complete listing at the end of the section. These tools or their equivalents are specially designed to quickly and safely accomplish the operations for which they are intended. The use of these special tools will also minimize possible damage to engine components. Some precision measuring tools are required for inspection of certain critical components. Torque wrenches are necessary for the correct assembly of various parts. Accessories The various procedures in this manual assume that the engine accessories have been removed. After removing the distributor, accessory brackets, etc. Methods used to clean the engine will depend on the means which are available. Steam cleaning, pressure washing, or solvent cleaning are some of the acceptable methods. Allow the engine to dry thoroughly before beginning any work. It is important that the engine be as clean as possible to prevent dirt, water, or any other contaminants from entering critical areas during disassembly. Engine Lubrication 67757 Full pressure lubrication, through a full-flow oil filter is supplied by a gear-type 4. Oil is drawn up through the oil pump screen and passes through the pump to the oil filter. The oil filter is a full-flow paper element unit with an anti-drain back valve. An oil filter bypass valve is used to ensure adequate oil supply, in the event the filter becomes plugged or develops excessive pressure drop. Filtered oil flows into the main gallery and then to the camshaft, balance shaft, rear bearing, and crankshaft bearings. The valve lifter oil gallery supplies oil to the valve lifters. Oil flows from the valve lifters through the hollow valve push rods to the valve rocker arms. Oil drains back to the crankcase through oil drain holes in the cylinder head. The camshaft timing chain is drip fed from the front camshaft bearing. The pistons and piston pins are lubricated by oil splash. Exhaust Manifold Removal 1. Drain water from exhaust manifolds. Disconnect water hose from manifold. Loosen upper exhaust hose clamps, then remove high rise elbow. Remove manifold attaching screws, then remove the manifold. To pressure check manifold, use a plate such as pictured, and a new elbow gasket to seal water passage in manifold. Be sure to apply sealer to gasket. Install rubber drain caps to manifold and secure with clamps. Attach a Gearcase Pressure Tester such as Stevens Company S-34 to the water inlet hose. A bushing can be made to secure pressure tester to hose. With the pressure tester attached to the manifold, submerge manifold in water. Pressurize the manifold to 10-15 PSI 22-25 kPa and check for leaks. Manifold should not leak around clamps and plate. If so, retighten clamps or reseal plate. No drop in pressure should be realized. Clean mating surfaces on manifold and head. Install new exhaust gasket, then install manifold and secure with screws. Tighten screws to 20-26 ft. Install a new gasket and high rise elbow to manifold. Tighten bolts to 12-18 ft. Clean threads in the mounting holes are critical for torquing of the riser bolts and the seal between the riser and manifold. Check all riser mounting holes in manifolds for debris or excessive coating on threads. The gasket mounting surfaces must be clean and flat to insure the correct seal between the riser and manifold. Carefully follow the steps below to insure a good seal. Before proceeding place shop towels in the manifold openings to prevent debris from entering the engine. When the cleaning process is done, use a shop vacuum to remove debris from the manifold, riser and engine. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces on both the riser and the manifold. Use spray on gasket remover to remove ALL traces of riser gasket. Heavy scrapping with tools on gasket surfaces may gouge surface, preventing proper seal. Follow pre-cautions on can of gasket remover to prevent damage to paint on manifold, riser or engine. Use 80 grit sandpaper and a sanding block, or equivalent to smooth the gasket mounting surfaces on the riser and manifold. If the surface can not be cleaned or sanded to this tolerance, the part must be machined flat at the gasket mounting surface. Roughness Average If the surface can not be machined to these specifications the part must be replaced. Place gasket over mounting surface on manifold. Be careful not to scratch or cut the black coating on the riser gasket. Do not use any sealant on the riser gasket. Install riser, on to exhaust manifold. Make sure gasket is properly placed. Install bolts and washers to secure riser. Install any parts secured under bolts. Torque riser bolts in a crossing pattern to 40 Nm 13. Make at least two passes to insure proper torque is reached. Install all other parts mounted to risers. Install exhaust hose and secure with clamps. Connect water hose and secure with clamp. Start engine and check for fuel leaks. Disconnect power from the engine. Remove battery cable 2 from solenoid extension nut 3. Remove solenoid extension nut 4 and cover 3 from solenoid. Remove accessory wires from solenoid 5. Remove start wire nut 6. Remove start wire from solenoid start terminal 7. Remove starter mounting bolts. B+ 1 2 35 4 6 7 22518 Installation 1. Hold stater against engine mounting pad with mounting holes aligned. Install starter bolts and tighten to 41-49 Nm 30-36 ft. Connect accessory wires 5 to solenoid. Install solenoid extension nut 4 and washer on solenoid terminal. Install solenoid extension nut cover 3. Connect battery cable 2 to solenoid extension nut. Install battery cable bolt 1 and washer. DO NOT overtighten the battery cable bolt. The starter solenoid will be damaged. Install start wire nut 6 and washer. Connect start wire to solenoid start terminal 1. Intake Manifold Removal 1. Disconnect power from engine. Remove drain plug from and starboard side of engine block. If water does not drain, use a small piece of wire to open the drain hole. Remove drain plug from and port side of engine block. If water does not drain, use a small piece of wire to open the drain hole. Drain coolant from Exhaust Manifolds. Disconnect hoses from thermostat housing. Remove cotter pin 1 and washer 2 and remove throttle cable from throttle lever. Loosen and remove anchor block bolt 3 and nut 4. Release cable block 5 and trunnion 6. Crankcase ventilation hose from rocker arm covers both sides if applicable. Disconnect wire at temperature gauge sender unit and engine wiring harness from alternator. Remove Distributor, Gi and GXi Mod-GL Models: See Electric, Fuel and Ignition Workshop Manual els 7743454. Disconnect distributor high tension leads and ignition primary lead from distributor cap. Remove the distributor cap bolts and discard. Remove the distributor cap. Mark the position of the rotor on the housing. Scribe a line on distributor housing and intake manifold for reassembly in the same position. Loosen hold down clamp and remove the distributor. Remove Distributor and discard Gasket. Disconnect and remove alternator. Remove Fuse box GXi-B and later only. Carburetor fuel line from carburetor and fuel pump or fuel lines from fuel rails. To disconnect fuel lines from fuel rail, see Quick Connect Fitting Service on page 346 of EFI Diagnostic Workshop Manual 7742218. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedures found on page 345 of EFI Diagnostic Workshop Manual 7742218 before servicing any part of the fuel system. Remove intake manifold attaching bolts. Lift manifold from engine. Discard front and rear seals and gaskets. If manifold is to be replaced, transfer: carburetor or throttle body, fuel rail assemblies, thermostat and housing use new gasket , throttle cable anchor block assembly, distributor clamp and temperature sending unit. Transfer additional hardware as required. Disassemble Intake Manifold GXi-B and later only 12. Remove Flame arrestor and bracket. Remove fuse box GXi-B and later only. Remove throttle body attaching studs. Remove throttle body and gasket. Remove Thermostat housing bolts. Remove Thermostat housing and discard gasket. Remove four retaining studs and remove fuel rail assembly. Remove upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Remove upper intake manifold. Remove and discard upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold gasket. Clean the upper intake manifold in cleaning solvent. Dry the upper intake manifold with compressed air. Place a NEW upper intake manifold gasket into the upper intake manifold gasket groove. Place the upper intake onto the lower intake manifold. Install upper intake manifold bolts. Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts in two stages. Inspect O-rings on fuel injectors. Replace any damaged, cut, or missing O-rings. Install the fuel injectors into the lower intake manifold. Install the fuel rail retaining studs and tighten to 23315 Intake Manifold Installation Caution!
